Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

After a very long day waking up for the marathon, I stayed up even later a second night in a row for a 1230am bus from Penang to Kuala Lumpur. While waiting for the bus, another Westerner approached me. His name was Mir, and he was Iranian. He thought I was Australian. When I told him that I'm American, he gave me a grin and goes, "Oh, we're your biggest enemy now you know." It was very awkward and I was uncomfortable. He then went onto ask me about my political beliefs (which I never discuss with strangers). He reminded me so much of this odd Syrian man that I met in Vietnam several weeks back. He also complained to me that, because of the US government sanction, he as a student in Malaysia could not open a bank account. Thankfully, I was not sitting next to him on the bus ride even though he wanted to trade seats with me. Our bus arrived in KL around 5am in a really dodgey neighborhood called "Pururaya." Mir and I (still safer as two people) headed over to the only place that was open: McDonald's to wait until the public transportation opened at 6am. However, I didn't feel like talking, so I said I was tired and fake-slept at McDonald's for an hour. When it was light out, we caught some McDonald's employees smiling and taking pictures before free breakfast day. It was very cute. After saying goodbye, I took the LRT train to KL Sentral- where my hostel called "POD's" was. When I was shown to my room it was dark and empty and felt a bit like a warehouse. I also was handed bedding to make my own bed!!! (I've never seen this done before). I was so tired though that it didn't matter. I slept from 8am until 1pm. When I woke up it was pouring rain.

Another woman staying at the hostel, an older woman who must have been in her mid to late 60s, asked me if I wanted to go check out a Hindu festival at a nearby temple with her. Having already learned that it's a great idea to say "yes" to spontaneous outings, I agreed. On our walk, however, I learned that this woman (Marie) was not functioning on all cylinders. Some of the comments she would make, were just...off. For example, while observing the Indians entering their temple for their festival, Marie wanted to go inside herself. I figured that because she was there and older, it would be okay and I would follow along. We went inside and sat down and we were the only two Westerners there. People were staring at us, and I don't blame them. From then we had agreed to go see a small "lights" show at 8pm in front of the Petronas Towers, and then the Petronas Towers at night (definitely high on my agenda). When I was taking pictures with the towers, Marie disappeared. She later came back and it was like she was a different (personality!) She was very "cold" and distant and quietly told me, "If you want to take pictures, I think let's just meet back at the hostel." I had been looking for her when she disappeared. The whole thing was just very, very bizarre. It was very socially "off" behavior.

I didn't really care either way, and I couldn't really say anything but "okay" when she said that. So, I spent the evening getting some frozen yogurt, observing the light show (nothing compared to Hong Kong...I'm snobby now) and watching the Petronas Towers light up from the top, down.

Another funny story involving Marie: Last night I left my locker key on the sink while I was going to the bathroom (it was just Marie and I in the dorm room). When I came out it was gone, but Marie was there. I asked her if she'd seen/ found the key, and she said, "Oh that's yours?...I took it and was going to test it out on some locks I have." (Whereas I thought she was about to say, "I took it and was going to give it to the person at the front desk.") Just. plain. off.

On my second day, I decided to 1. sleep in (much needed) and 2. go to the National Mosque. I'd seen pictures friends who'd been in KL wearing purple robes...they were visitors to the National Mosque- the holiest mosque in all of KL. I was oddly excited to go to the mosque and to learn about Islam, a religion with a lot of influence in the world that I know very little (and sort of biased perspectives) about. Fascinatingly, when I showed up I was asked twice if I was Muslim when I was putting on robe (robes were only for non-Muslims). I have to say, I've really enjoyed traveling with my dark hair and skin, because, literally, in every country I go I'm asked if I'm party of that culture or nationality. It's nice! While blindly meandering around the mosque, I smiled at a woman who then approached me. It turns out that she was a volunteer every Tuesday morning at the National Mosque. She was a retiree at the age of 58, and joked that she never had any "takers." She sat me down right then and there on the floor and we talked for almost an hour and a half. She started by describing that she is a "Muslim" because she "believes in Islam." I'm glad that I (sort of) have those two words clarified now. She described the 5 pillars of Islam, and the 5 times a day that followers of Islam prayed. She explained to me that every Muslim must donate a minimum of 2.5 percent of their earnings to charity, and every Muslim who is able and can afford it, must make a pilgrimage to Mecca. She described her head scarf, not eating pork, women being considered "dirty" when on their periods and therefore not praying then, women physically pray behind men (although she clarified that it's not because men are better than women, but the two "complement" each other). In Islam, women and men only need to pray once they are considered "adults," which in Islam is around 14 years (so similar to the Jewish bar and bat mitzvah). Judaism and Islam are so similar, and I can't get over that. We both kept saying that and agreeing.

I did ask Zurila about the September 11th, attacks, and radical Islam and her response was this, "The children of Palestine...they grew up only knowing violence and war. I had a very safe and lovely childhood. Muslim preaches non-judgment....so who am I to judge what they're doing? They think that they are doing what Allah wants. Only Allah will decide one day." This response pissed me off because it wasn't defending the terrorists, but it wasn't not defending them. Regardless, still a very educational experience.

From the mosque, I went to check out the Central Market. I ended up finding so much beautiful artwork! I then went on a walk to find a very old mosque called, "Majek Jamek," but it appeared to be under construction. When I asked some people if they knew how to enter, a man stopped to join in and said, "It's closed right now but my office is right here and you can come and take a picture from it." It was so kind! He took me up to his little air conditioned law office and it had a great view! He even opened the window for me to get a better shot. He told me I was "very brave" for traveling alone (as did Zurila) and he also told me that the law in this country favors men. Malaysia has an English Court, as well as a Muslim Court for things such as divorce. If a man wants a divorce he must simply tell his wife 3x. She, however, has a much harder time if she wants a divorce. I was touched by this stranger's kindness!

The streets of Kuala Lumpur

(fancy high-rises next to poorer buildings)

Me in front of the Hindu temple for the festival

Hindu Indians praying

A really cool figure outside of the temple

I thought the birds on these wires were pretty :)

Colorful! (Indians created these)

A lovely picture of Marie haha

Then this really incredible "dueling" fight/ story of some kind 

between the different figurines broke out. I had no idea what

was going on but I really enjoyed myself! (excited for India...!)

Lots of hairy, shirtless, Indian men!

At dusk, the Petronas Towers are lit up from top (first)

to bottom. They really are beautiful (and I don't usually

say that about things that aren't nature-made!)

That is the moon in the top right hand corner!

Wahoo!

A really kind stranger helped me with this one

(She apparently wasn't a very good photographer

though...where are the rest of the buildings?!)

Much better. (Different photographer)

I feel like I look photoshopped!

The light show was rather underwhelming haha

Pictures of some of my favorite Malay food!

My dorm room 

(Hilarious in the 3rd floor of an office building...I'm 

sure the law office and security office across the hall

absolutely LOVE all of the smelly backpackers)

That bed with the blue towel is mine! Do you see how

being shown to this room in the dark, when you're the 

only one, might be kind of scary?! Marie turned her bed

into a cave by hanging her clothes, so I did the same thing!

A beautiful building (actually an old train station!)

More Islamic- archtitecture

National Mosque

All non-Muslim visitors must wear purple robes

Can you see the numbers on this clock?

They are not the numbers you normally see

It's me! Looking a little bit like a medieval wizard

Here I am standing in front of the main congregation hall

(very beautiful as well)

Me with my lovely volunteer guide Zurila

Zurila's idea

(She said that Muslims do this when they're done reading)

The architecture/ the water (which did have significant meaning

but I don't remember in what way) really was beautiful

View walking out from the National Mosque

Central Market

I didn't even want to go, but they had the best shopping!

I bought lots of lovely Chinese art (which makes up for my

lack of shopping in China. In China I was just trying to survive.)

A beautiful old building I spotted on the street

This architecture reminds me of Aladdin.

Pretty trippy that this is Southeast Asia and not Saudi Arabia

(Now that I think about it, I wonder if Aladdin was antisemitic...womp womp)

The needle at the right is supposed to be cool. 

I however was too cheap to pay 80 Ringgit or so to go up.

View from the nice lawyer's office!

Majek Jamek...a beautiful old mosque that is under construction

(so I went to McDonald's. True story.)

The nice lawyer told me that this green field is where

Malaysia's independence was announced in the 1950s.