Sunday, January 29, 2012

Chiang Mai: Umbrellas, Chinese New Year, and Mountain Adventures

Disclaimer: This blog is longer than usual, and there are more photos than usual! I traveled to Chiang Mai last week, and there is much to share!

Last Friday I was informed that I wouldn’t have school for the next week, because all of the teachers were headed off to a conference in Bangkok. So, what’s a girl to do in Southeast Asia when she suddenly learns she has 10 free days? First, she freaks out.  Then she checks her flight options. (I’ve really wanted to go visit my sister in London, but it is still quite a trek to get there from Ubon). My flight options were both expensive and limited, so I decided that this week would be a great opportunity to see-another-part-of-Thailand-bus-week. While browsing the internet and my Thailand books, I learned that this very weekend happened to be the same weekend as the annual Umbrella Festival in Bo Sang, Chiang Mai. I remember seeing photographs of these beautiful umbrellas in National Geographic before, and I made up my mind that I was going to go. The only problem was that the festival was only 3 days, and it had already started. I was determined to make it to the final day of the festival…Sunday! However, this meant that I would need to quickly book a 16 hour, overnight bus to Chiang Mai.  This is exactly what I did, and it was such an adventure. I find that some of my most thoughtful moments happen on these long bus rides.

While waiting for my 2pm bus (getting into Chiang Mai the next morning at 645am), I chatted with two women who were teachers at a nearby secondary school.  When our bus stopped for dinner, we sat and ate together. I love making new friends! The next morning our bus got in around 6am. It was FREEZING cold, and pitch black. I had my backpack, myself, and no plan except to get to Bo Sang, and to hopefully eventually meet some of the other Fulbrights. The two women that I had been talking with the night before saw that I was waiting (and didn’t really know what I was doing...it was 6am in a place I didn't know), and they offered to take me home with them, and then drive me to Bo Sang. I went with them! One of the lady’s sisters picked her up, and we went to her home, where we had bananas and clementines and green tea. I brushed my teeth and was able to clean up a little bit. Then they drove me to Bo Sang, treated me to a sit down breakfast, and we started strolling through the fair. One of the ladies even bought me a scarf! (I have since worn it everyday). I couldn’t believe how kind these strangers were to me—obviously not expecting anything in return, or thinking that they would ever see me again (I must have looked pretty pitiful!). Regardless, meeting these women, and the adventure of going home with absolute strangers, is one of my most treasured memories from my almost four months here. I will never be able to repay these women, but I definitely plan on “paying it forward” to someone, at some point, when the opportunity unfolds itself. Never again will I look at a foreign, confused person in Chicago the same way. These little (or big!) acts of kindness have touched me forever.

At Bo Sang, I was able to meet up with 3 other Fulbrights. It was great to speak with them in fast English and hear their latest stories. I then went home with one of my friends, Kelly, to her home in Sarapee (about an hour’s drive from Chiang Mai proper). I could not get over how beautiful the looming rubber trees that lined the roads to Sarapee were. I felt like I was in some sort of kingdom where I was an itty bitty creature! One day when I went venturing into the city while Kelly had to teach, I accidentally got off the bus to soon and walked an hour and a half back to her apartment- no sidewalks, but beautiful rubber trees lining the streets. It was quite the adventure! I visited Kelly’s school one day, which is always interesting for me to compare experiences. I think that I am the only Fulbright who teaches at a school where, literally no one, speaks English. I also spent the Chinese New Year in Chiang Mai proper, which was very exciting, as many Thais are of Chinese ancestry. I did some shopping and ate lots of delicious food.

On Wednesday, I took off from Kelly’s place and went to the Royal Flora exhibit on my own. The only way I can describe Royal Flora is as if there were an Epcott Center for flowers. The exhibit was HUGE (like Disney World), and many different countries had their own “garden” within the exhibit.  I was shocked to be one of the only farang there, though. Not only that, but I was wearing a Cubs hat. I caught several different people snapping photos of me.  (aka You know you’re in Asia when you offer to take a picture of a group of people, but instead they want you in the picture, they want you to stand in the center, and everyone in the picture passes over their cameras). I actually think that this is one of the sweetest, most harmless things that I love about Thai culture, and I will miss being a celebrity once I am back in America. One thing in particular that I found absolutely hilarious about Royal Flora was that all of the translated English signs and English pamphlets were FULL of grammatical mistakes and very poor English. Royal Flora runs from December 2011 to March 2012, and was resurrected to commemorate the King’s birthday (the most revered man in all of Thailand). This was a multi multi million dollar, international project. Yet, they didn’t get a native English speaker to edit any of their large printed signs or pamphlets. 

Another highlight of Royal Flora: Finding a 2004-2005 New Trier High School student ID in my old backpack, testing it out, and having it WORK to get me in as a student!!! I have found that many Thai people guess that I am 18...the opposite direction of age that Americans usually guess. They also go by Buddhist years (it's now year 2555), so maybe that helped me. I was naughty!

After Royal Flora, I caught a bus to Mae Hor Phra (a small town in the mountains of Chiang Mai province) to visit my friend Matt, and to see something new. I really didn’t know where I was going, and the bus driver informed me when we were at the school where Matt had told me to get off. I literally got off on the side of the road. There was no one around, but there were breathtakingly beautiful mountains. It was dusk, and mist had begun to move over the mountains. (Or as Chiang Mai students say “Thailand’s snow”). Matt met me (thank god), and we went for an amazing nighttime motorbike ride through the mountains. I absolutely loved his school, teachers, and students, when I met them the next day, and everyone spoke wonderful English. It was also very fun for me to hear the Northern dialect of Thai. They use some different words and sounds, so it was very cool. Matt took me to Buatong Falls one day, which was drop dead gorgeous. At the falls, you can literally climb down them (you get soaking wet), and swim in the lagoon at the bottom. I don’t think that there is anything in life more thrilling than swimming in a serene, jungle lagoon at the bottom of a waterfall that you have just climbed down. Ubon is flat, so everyday I enjoyed the novelty of the mountains gracing the backdrop.

Just before I boarded my 16 hour bus home, I got a really bad case of food poisoning. (Hilarious if you think about it, but I felt so sick!) I am currently on antibiotics, hoping that it’s not a parasite. However, my trip to Chiang Mai province was the perfect adventure.

Enjoy all of the umbrella pictures! They are my favorite J



The wonderful ladies who took me home with them at 6am from the Chiang Mai bus station.

Their car cover. One of the ladies loved Hello Kitty.

The look of success.
 I made my goal of seeing the Umbrella Festival a reality!
(and I am so glad I did, because I will most likely not be in Thailand next January, so I don't know when I would have gotten the next chance to see it)

Just a warning...the next (many) photos are of me with umbrellas...

I call these the "fire" colored umbrellas!

Maya (left), one of the Fulbrights who lives in Chiang Rai, and me, next to a very large umbrella!

Old ladies making the umbrellas! 
SO COOL

A woman painting an umbrella

Peackock Umbrella

Sherbert colored umbrellas!

Posing with some bad ass umbrellas.
ps- the scarf I have on is the scarf the ladies who took me home from the bus this morning bought for me!

Lauren, another Fulbright, and I eating Ancient Ice Cream 
(ice cream that comes in cool shapes that is sold on a stick)
Not as good as klondike bars, but few things in life are as good as klondike bars.

Birds for sale! I got a kick out of the "bird feed" in the cages. Can you see?
(The birds eat peeled bananas!)

Beautiful. 
If I ever do a scrapbook of my travels, this photo will have to be a backdrop of some sort.

Making umbrellas. 
The woman on the left is trimming off the extra paper on her umbrella.

Papering umbrellas! Such a cool skill. I want to learn the craft of umbrella making!

Umbrellas "undersides." I feel like I am violating them!

An artist paints an umbrella

Parade! Marching band with PLUMES! Awesome.

Beauty queen, under an umbrella, of course, with floats decorated with 
more umbrellas and pictures of the king.

Chinese New Year in Chiang Mai's China Town!

Cool Mushrooms

Chinese New Year Dragon!

Sugar cane being "juiced"

Rubber trees line the streets on the way to Sarapee

Royal Flora

The "Soiless Garden" greenhouses of Royal Flora. 
I was way into these :)

Royal Flora

Monks on their way to ride the ferris wheel

Fresh off the bus: Mae Hor Phra

My friend, Matt, and his house (on the school's property)

Rice fields and mountains 
(photo taken from motorbike)

Driving to the National Park

Just BEAUTIFUL

This is a "magic" spring. Thais put the holy water on their faces, but you can't swim in it.
The color of the water was really cool. It did seem like a holy spring!

Buatong Falls

Climbing back up the waterfall, after a lovely swim in the lagoon at the bottom.

A little pond I found and decided to swim in

We got a flat tire, and stopped at a Hilltribe village to get it fixed.
We definitely looked like dumb farang

Cool silo?

I will never forget the vibrant kelly green of fresh rice sprouts

Northern Thailand

I like this picture because it looks like we're in Park City, Utah!
Matt slightly reminds me of Hansel from Zoolander

View from dinner on the lake

At dinner, this kitten jumped on my lap...
I wanted to bring it home with me.

My favorite new teacher friend, Kruu Zara! She calls herself the "Lovely Dictator."
She kindly drove me back to the city of Chiang Mai to catch my bus home :)

Friday, January 20, 2012

Hangover 2

This past 3 day weekend (if you're thinking that it seems like I have a lot of 3 day weekends, you are right!) was one of the most adventure-filled amazing weekends ever. And, it closely resembled one of my favorite movies: The Hangover 2.

Last Friday was "Children's Day,"- so children came to school and played games and sports all day. Monday was "Teacher's Day," - so all teachers gave themselves the day off. One of my fellow bartending friends from college, Colette, had recently arrived in Thailand and was going to visit her other friend, Andrea, that weekend in the beach town of Sriracha. Colette, Andrea, and I all started facebook messaging, and we decided that I should try to come down too! I took an 8 hour overnight bus from Ubon to Bangkok that arrived at 4am, then I took a quick cab ride to a different bus station, and I caught a 2 hour bus to Sriracha. This was my first overnight bus, and I have to admit that I am VERY impressed. It was just like an airplane! Each chair came with a clean (well...) folded blanket, personal TV (I watched "Pretty Woman"...in English!), there was a lady bus attendant (cap and scarf included!), and 3 square meals. Heck, it was better than an airplane...I could bring any sized shampoo and toothpaste I wanted, as well as a huge pair of scissors!

Colette and Andrea (who I'd never met at this point, an English teacher too) met me around 6am when my bus dropped me off, and we went back to Andrea's place to sleep for a few hours. When we woke up, we headed to the nearby island of Koh Sichang for the day. I thought that it was less touristy and more quaint than many of the other islands that I've been to. Good fun! After our day at the beach, we packed up and headed down to Pattaya for the night.

Pattaya: Pattaya gained popularity as a R&R spot for soldiers during the Vietnam War. Today, there are two distinct groups that vacation in Pattaya: super old white men- who go to pick up prostitutes (everywhere) or to find 50 year younger Thai girlfriends, and Thai families: who are attracted to the restaurants and beaches. Pattaya reminds me a bit of a much (much!) shadier Atlantic City. So, obviously a fun weekend :) Upon arriving at a super swanky hotel (like, American swanky!), Andrea and I sat down and stuffed our faces with some complementary goodies and marveled at the hotel while Colette checked everyone in. Colette had met about 20 Australian buds when she was on Koh Samui and Koh Phangnan the week prior, and they were staying at this same hotel in Pattaya. She thought it would be fun to stay in the same hotel so we could all go out together and get crazy. Boy was she right, and our night was about to be off to an amazing start.

The only room in the hotel that was left was the Executive Suite, and the hotel offered to give the room to us at a regular room's rate. This room was meant to party. It had 280 degree ocean views, 2 huge bathrooms, a 6 person dining room table, marble kitchen...I could go on and on. The three of us spent a good 30 minutes just taking pictures and jumping on the furniture. Then, our 20 new Australian friends came over for a pregame that turned into a rager...people were running around half naked, some of the guys had bbguns...it was absolute madness. I will never forget that we listened to Colette's pirated Full Moon party mix (techno music) and Rihanna's new CD the whole time. When we finally left, we all went to Walking Street- probably the grimiest street in Pattaya. We saw our first ping pong show (I don't really want to talk about this on my blog hahaha) and...that's it, Mom and Dad! This is awkward. Did I mention that we fed giant turtles in Sriracha?

Cruising in the back of a tuk tuk in the main town on Koh Sichang

The windy, beautiful drive down to the beach

View from our tuk tuk. I'm pretty sure that Peter Pan lived here.

Our driver let us pull over and get out to take this picture. From left: Andrea, Colette, (me)

Fresh off of our 40 minute ferry ride, back to Sriracha!

Sriracha is known for incredible seafood. We stopped and browsed at a market near the shore.

Horse shoe crabs and squids! Does squid plural have an "s"? 
Not like I'm an English teacher or anything

Not the most appetizing, but good fun. Raw, chopped up "turtle food," aka squid.

Colette feeding one of Sriracha's monster turtles

Sriracha's famous sea turtles. There were so many people feeding them that they weren't even hungry!

While Colette checks us into our hotel in Pattaya, the Siam Bayview Hotel, Andrea and I enjoyed complementary chocolate chip cookies, with fresh chrysanthemum tea, and a cold towelette that we wiped all over our nasty faces. Ahh refreshing! Not quite the luxury either of us are used to at this point...

When all other rooms are booked so the hotel upgrades you to the "Executive Suite," it comes with a dining room, double doors, and a huge keychain that screams "There's a BOSS staying in room 850, bitch!" The boys in the back are some of Colette's Australian friends who came to check out the sweet ("suite!") view...no pun intended!

Oh yeah...

We have a marble kitchen and there's beer already stocked in the fridge.
Good reason to jump.

Colette (right) and I jumping for joy. If you could see out of that window behind us, it's all ocean :)
Do you like my romper? I bought it in Phuket. I'm still not sure how I feel about rompers.

When you lucked out over such a ridiculous room, and you're used to pooping on squat toilets and eating fried bugs with your fingers, the only appropriate thing to do would be to throw a party with some rowdy Aussies.
Pretty sure he's not Jewish. 

Colette checking out her balcony

Lucifer's, a popular bar on Walking Street in downtown Pattaya. 
Such a great night.

Getting groovy

Walking Street, Pattaya
(in my opinion, much shadier than Bangkok)

Some damage the morning after. Reminds me of the good old college days!

Our Executive Suite came with a free 650 baht brunch! 
AND IT HAD A HUGE CHEESE PLATTER!!!! 
I ate a lot of cheese for the first time in months, and then I got sick.

Taking a dip in the pool. Life is good :)


Pattaya Beach: the best beach for water sports in Thailand

glistening water

Andrea and me. 
We are now currently planning a trip together to Hong Kong!

Cute little stray cat 

Dad: I know you love Abe Lincoln. This shirt is for you.

My first Thai massage in Thailand (I know I waited so long I was just so busy!)
I was ticklish the entire time. The masseuse is our friend :)
Fyi: the massage was about $7/ hour.

Elephant walking down the street with a red flashing light taped on its tail!
I feel bad for it I wish it had some friends around, and I bet its tail wants to be free.

Some kids I stalked at the beach. They were decorating their sandcastle with flowers. I wanted to help them, but that would be weird

Colette in her Manning jersey, and me in my, well, "This is my third day of travel/ it's hot as balls" outfit.

An adorable fat kid playing in the midday sprinklers. 
(Note: It is okay to call people "fat" in Thailand. It's fact, so it is not rude to them. Thailand should not be watering grass in the middle of the day. Who can I talk to about this...)

If we were guys, it would be considered inappropriate to be hanging out at a children's playground.
But, we are girls so we can do whatever we want!

Oh hey, AirAsia airplane! 

Ubon Ratchathani Airport, serving 3 domestic locations:
Just like Ithaca Airport :)