As the bus dropped us off in downtown BSB around 730pm, I realized that I had no idea where I was going, nor Brunei dollars. However, I knew that BSB was safe, and that the only hostel in town (not even really a hostel- a YMCA type Youth Center) was called "Pusat Belia" in Malay. Also, there was another Westerner on the almost empty bus. Lucky for me, I've quickly discovered that these travelers are usually headed to the same places I am. Low an behold, he was. Also lucky: The hostel was right across the street from where the bus dropped us off (especially lucky because neither one of us had Brunei money!) We entered the youth center and it was like this big, almost vacant, building. There was no one manning the front desk, so my new Spanish friend (Oscar) and I just waited. We got the wifi to work (unbelievably). About two hours later someone showed up and checked us in (how crazy is that that we were going to just be able to go into a room on our own!) The man told us it was ok if we paid the following morning once we had Brunei money. It really was my lucky night, right?
Interestingly, at the hostel, there was a group of Singaporean high school students doing some kind of an exchange. Their teacher came to talk with Oscar and I and said that Brunei and Singapore have a very close relationship (I think that it's cute that the two smallest, richest countries in ASEAN are buddy-buddy).
In the short time I was there, Brunei already felt very different from Malaysia. A few, in my opinion, fascinating facts:
- Brunei's population is about 400,000 people
- It is the most religious (Islamic) country in all of SE Asia
- Although, only 67 percent of the country is actually Muslim (the rest are Christians, Buddhists and indigenous beliefs)
- Israeli passport holders are barred from entry, but Israeli-stamped passport holders are okay
- The sale of alcohol and tobacco are banned (as of 1991)
- Most shops close at 5pm sharp
- There is absolutely no nightlife
-The literacy rate is 94 percent, and the average life expectancy is 77
-Brunei is classified as a "developed" country (interesting if you consider that it's right next to Malaysia)
- It is an oil rich country. The Brunei dollar is $1.2 to the $1 USD (When you're there it's actually quite sureal, as there is Arabic writing everywhere (more so than in Malaysia) as well as oil money...really feels like you're in the Middle East a bit!)
- There is a sultan, and he lives in the largest residential palace in the world
- There is free medical care for all
- There are free pensions for all
- There is no income tax
- All museums are free (woohoo!)
- Only Shell gas stations are found in Brunei (which I just found out is because the sultan has a 50/50 venture with Shell)
- It is a sexually repressed society (no holding hands)
- Women are not allowed to play sports (with the exception of "netball" and a few others)
- Men and women are separated in almost everything: hotels (often, even if you're married) and in the hospital!
The next morning I woke up around 9am (a civilized hour!) to head out and exchange some of my Malaysian Ringgit to pay the amazingly reasonable $10/ night. Amazingly, the money exchanger charged a 0 percent fee. I like this place! I then decided to take a stroll around the nearby area. (To get to farther away places you really need private transportation...everyone has a car). Not only does everyone have a car, many peopl ehave SUVs. I felt like I was oddly back in the USA or something! When I passed a *Shell gas station and saw the price of oil, it was 31 CENTS/ liter. Unbelievable. (However it's crazy to cross the border from Malaysia into Brunei pricewise...a 30 cent bottle of water suddenly becomes $2 just over the border. Amazing!) While I was on my stroll, I stopped to ask two lady parking attendants if a white structure in front of us was a roller coaster (I'd heard about an abandoned amusement park...creepy). It was not (hilariously, now) but there was a man who was listening to me ask my question who spoke excellent English and started explaining things. He asked me where I was from, where I was going, etc. When I told him my next stop was a mosque just down the road, he walked with me. It turns out that he used to live in the USA (Washington DC) so he felt a connection to me, I think (probably the way I will act around Thais I meet in America). I thought to myself, "It's so kind that this stranger is walking with me and teaching me about Brunei and the history of this mosque!" He also offered to take my photo, which is always an issue when you travel alone. This man was clearly passionate, and proud, of his country, and enjoying showing me around. He asked me what the rest of my plans were for the day, and I told him I wanted to see the Brunei Museum. He asked how I would get there, to which I responded "I don't know!" He told me that he could take me and pick me up, but that he was waiting on a call from his wife at 11am. As soon as I got in his car, he called his wife and even put her on the phone with me to chat (she was very friendly). He told me that Bandar Seri Begawan (pronounced "Bann-dahr Seer-y Buh-gow-ehn") is a very small place and that everyone loves loves loves to "talk." He said that if anyone saw us together they will gossip, so he called his wife first (smart man!)
Today would become one of the BEST days of my whole trip. Days like that cannot be beat.
Our first stop was a beautiful mosque that I'd past the night before on the bus drive into town (I actually thought it was a palace!) The mosque was called Jame 'Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque. It truly was breathtaking. This mosque was huge, opulent, GOLD, and so thoughtfully constructed. There was so much detail in everything, everywhere. The floors had tiles inlaid in "star" formations, and the ceiling had beautiful stained glass and Arabic script written in throughout the "circle." I was so amazed at the amount of detail simply found any which way you looked. There was also a children's "Sunday-school" looking area, and a library with lots of Islamic texts (really similar to a synagogue...) Due to the fact that I was there with a local (Ahmad!) he asked the guards if and where I could take pictures. He also acted as a private tour guide throughout (the day...) but especially at the mosque (I never would have known any of these details on my own). He showed me where the sultan's staircase was (only the royal family enters and exits from it) as well as the men's prayer room, and the women's (tiny, less grand) prayer room. I never knew this, but the carpet in the main prayer room had individual "seat" patterns on it so that people could sit neatly and have a "spot" on the rug. So clever! I was extremely impressed (much more so than I was in Kuala Lumpur at the National Mosque).
From there, he drove me to see the gate of the sultan's palace. It was so cool! On the gate there were two "seals": one showing the outline of the country of Brunei, and the other showing the flag of Brunei. Ahmad wanted me to take a picture with me and the guard (I promise it wasn't my idea!) and he asked him in Malay. The guard was so cute and little (see pic). Then Ahmad drove me to his home with his 7 cats to wake up his 15 year old nephew so that he could come out with us! I couldn't believe the kindness and generosity of this complete stranger...suddenly I'm at his private house! I'm like a real Bruneian! I also have to give myself a pat on the back for putting myself out there, being spontaneous, and being smiley and friendly to everyone I meet (It goes a long way).
Daniel, Ahmad's nephew, was really cool. From there, Ahmad drove us to one of his favorite restaurant's (at a resort) because it was right on the ocean and was beautiful. The restaurant, called "Mangrove Paradise" was built on stilts over the water. A panoramic view showed just water, greenery, and mangroves! For lunch they ordered traditional Bruneian food (and showed me how to eat it!) as well as some sweet & sour chicken for me hehe! I felt so taken care of! After lunch, we had coffee and Daniel had warm Mylo (heated chocolate milk). Although I offered to pay (for everyone) Ahmad treated me. I never could have gotten here, or would have known, about this place on my own!!! Best day ever.
We then drove to the Brunei Museum, which was relatively nearby. Ahmad parked as Daniel and I went inside. The museum was fantastic- divided into different sections. Just as in KL, there was an "Islamic Arts" section, a History section, a Wildlife Section, etc. The museum was very comprehensive. My favorite section was called "Oil & Gas." I learned so much about the drilling and how Brunei makes its money. I also was shocked to learn that both men and women are circumcised (all women, even today- I asked, are circumcised at 40 days old). Interestingly, at an ASEAN display on the second floor, I noticed that Thailand's listed religion was "Buddhism, Islam." I found this (bogus) as the high majority (maybe 90 percent of Thailand is Buddhist, while 67 percent of Brunei is Islam...yet none of the 33 percent of other religions is listed! There's always a "spin" on information to the country's favor (also in KL with the Dome of the Rock listed as in "Palestine.") What is it with museum's "spinning" information?!
We then went to one more museum: The Brunei Technology Museum (on the entire drive we listened to Michael Buble's album, which Ahmad adorably had first pronounced "Bubbly"). Ahmad warmly told me that when I hear Buble next I need to remember our adventure day :) At the museum, I learned all about water villages, and there were lots of creepy mannequins in the displays. Then we picked up Ahmad's daughter (who was kind of awkward at first, but by the end had entirely warmed up to me :)) I treated everyone to Dairy Queen. Then we went to the water front to walk around. We also went on walk on a rickety dock to a water village. Then, I asked if we could make one final stop at the Empire Hotel. I'd heard that this hotel was the nicest hotel in all of Brunei, and I didn't realize that it was 20 minutes away ("grenjai!") The hotel was something else though. It was so opulent and gold and glitzy! (Check out the pics). We also passed the abandoned Jurodong Park (theme park) and a really hilarious giant diamond monument. I thought it was then time to go home (it was about 9pm already!) but then we were off to dinner! We went to a little restaurant that had amazing food. Per usual, I ordered fried noodles ("char koy teeow"). Then it was time to go home.
12 hour day!!!! We traded emails, and I thanked them profusely. They all said that they wished I was in Brunei longer, and to contact them when I came back. (In the back of my head, I was always wondering whether if they knew I was Jewish, they would have treated me the same way, but let's hope that they would have :)) One of the best days ever.
Welcome to Brunei Darussalam!
Warning: Death for Drug Traffickers Under Brunei Law
Pink clouds on the bus ride from Miri to BSB
Doesn't that white thing look like a rollercoast?!
(Not just me!)
Bank Islam Brunei Darussalam
In front of the Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque
(right after I met my new friend Ahmad)
I thought that it was cool to see this:
Queen Elizabeth II Street
(Brunei used to be an English protectorate)
Jame 'Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque
I passed this mosque on the bus ride in from Miri.
It truly is breathtakingly beautiful.
I thought that it was a palace at first!
This mosque is very difficult to get to if you
don't have your own car.
I love this picture :)
The driveway up to the mosque...but only the
sultan can use this entrance!
These two staircases are at a certain end of the mosque-
they are how the sultan and the royal family enter,
and leave, the mosque. The rest of the congregation
uses the main (a different) entrance.
If I dind't have Ahmad playing tourguide, I never would know this!
So grand and opulent!
Even the ceiling was detailed and breathtaking
The main entrance
(no photos were allowed once inside)
Me, wearing a borrowed black robe from the
mosque, to cover myself.
So much detail!
Beautiful "star" gate, even
Even the ground was thoughtfully designed!
I like this picture too. Here, I am standing in front
of a mosaic in front of the women's entrance/ side
The women's side entrance (men and women are separated)
In front of the sultan's main gate entrance
(Ahmad told me to go quickly haha!)
With the official sign
Gosh, the sultan really does have a beautiful drive up!
Ahmad
Vietnam and Brunei flags
(The leader of Vietnam was visiting today!)
The gate to the Royal Palace!
(The largest residential palace in the world- with 257 bathrooms!)
Honestly, I didn't ask for this photo to be taken!
But I'm glad that Ahmad did! Now I have a picture with
a guard in England at Buckingham Palace, and at Brunei's palace!
The "hands" lifting up to the sky symbolize Islam,
as does the crescent moon (which is tilted sideways)
In front of the sultan's residential palace gate. So cool right?
Istana Nurul Iman
(The name of the palace)
One of the crests on the gate: You can see the funny shape of Brunei!
A palace worker entering
So many Brunei and Vietnam flags
The residential palace's polo fields
Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque
(The mosque of the father of the current sultan)
Ahmad's house! He had at least 6 cats
They were so cute! The main house was upstairs
He took me upstairs to the living room because he had to wake
up his 15 year old nephew haha. While I was waiting Ahmad
brought me cold water, and I snuck pictures of the inside!
Different angle
Then the 3 of us drove way out to this beautiful restaurant/
resort called Mangrove Paradise Resort. They ordered
traditional Bruneian food for me to try, as well as some
sweet and sour chicken just in case hehe ;)
There were beautiful mangroves all around us!
(I'd never seen mangrove forests, but I remember reading
about them when I was younger in a "rainforest" book that I had!)
The resort we went to for lunch :)
It's me looking pretty tan!
Those are not chopsticks- they are connected at one end and
used to eat the traditional Bruneian "goo"! (not correct name haha)
From left: Daniel, Ahmadm and me!
Our beautiful delicious feast!
Yum! Yum! Yum!
Daniel and Ahmad showing me how you use those
cool connected "sticks" to scoop of the "goo" and twirl
it around so that you have a lump of it on your stick!
Close-up
(I'd never seen anything like this!)
Then you dip it in this delicious sauce!
Our view
(The clouds were pretty amazing)
We explored some of the hotel rooms...right on the ocean!
Daniel and me
Ancient (Islamic) shoes at the Brunei Museum
How does anyone even walk in these?!
The intricate, delicate carving on this piece of ivory
were absolutely unbelievable
(Child labor, anyone?)
My favorite part of the museum.
I love these things
Outside of the Brunei Museum (great museum!)
Me and Daniel!
Taking a picture with the replica humans in the museum
that Daniel, Ahmad and I all thought were very creepy!
A fake man demonstrating how you make the "goo"
that we ate for lunch!!! (It comes from trees somehow)
This is a SCHOOL that is built over the ocean (on stilts!) I've never seen
anything like this, and schools like this are very common in Brunei!
At a beautiful view lookout point!
Finally, we picked up Ahmad's daughter and we all
went out for Dairy Queen! (I treated :))
Picture time!
Then we even saw a rainbow!
(Talk about a perfect day haha!)
Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque at night.
Spectacular.
On our drive to Jurodong Park (abandoned amusement park)
there was a giant monument of a diamond...representing...wealth?
(How hilarious is that)
Entrance to the Empire Hotel- Brunei's fanciest hotel
Beautiful lobby. In case you were wondering, those
orchids are real.
(But do you see the luggage lining the entrance? Not classy.)
The inside was so opulent and grand. I imagine that
this is a little bit how grand (hotels) in Dubai look.
View from the outside pool area
Then we went out for yet another fantastic meal (dinner!)
Mr. Bean was playing! Bringing back all kinds of
wonderful Thai teaching/ student memories :)
Ahmad's daughter's Indonesian style meal
Satay (but only chicken and beef!) also eaten with a peanut sauce.
There was also a Malaysian drink that tasted just like my
favorite chai yen! (Thai iced tea)
I felt so included... just one of the gang!
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