Friday, February 24, 2012

2 Color River & Peace Corps/ Fulbright Reunion

This past weekend was one of the best, busiest weekends I have ever had. As my host teacher and I drove home after school on Friday, I remembered that someone had mentioned that it was Mahh Lahng's birthday on Saturday, so I asked her if we could stop into Big C (the local supermarket) to pick up some fancy treats of some sort (I went with cupcakes!) It had been such an exhausting week at school that I hadn't eaten dinner with any members of my Thai family for a few days. It melted my heart that when I arrived at my apartment, they all asked me where I had been. They also told me that I was just in time for Mahh Lahng, and reminded me that it was her birthday tomorrow. It felt great to flash them the cupcakes to let them know that I had remembered. At dinner together, Mahh Lahng invited me to go with her family to the border of Thailand and Southern Laos to see the "2 Color River." This is where the MeKong River and the Mun River meet. I had 3 Fulbright visitors coming in from MahaSarakham on Saturday, so I wasn't too anxious to wake up at 8am, but Mahh Lahng wanted me to go so badly that I agreed. (However, she told me to be ready by 830am, and we didn't leave until 930 am...I was definitely annoyed!) However, the day was so fabulous that it was hard to stay upset.

When we pulled up to the river, we were greeted by this truly magnificent gold and white castle-looking temple. It turns out that this was Wat Tham Khu Ha Sawan. We took photos and marveled at it, before preceding to enter the famed "Buddha caves." I can't really think of words to describe how cool these caves were. I hope that the pictures do them some justice! We made merit (gave coins and flowers and lit a yellow candle) before heading down to the shore for a long-tailed boat ride to see where the two rivers meet. While I walked down to the boat, marveling at Laos across the MeKong, and feeling truly loved and accepted by my Thai family, I couldn't help but think, "Wow, who would have thought a year ago that I'd be boating on the MeKong, overlooking Laos, with a new family." It was one of those moments.  However, I overheard the driver (skipper?) telling everyone that I couldn't get off the shore on Laos because I'm a farang. (He obviously only knew this based off of the color of my skin). Sometimes there is such blatant racism here that it drives me crazy. There are two prices for everything: a Thai price and a "farang" price. Drives me nuts! Anyways, Paw Owt and Mahh Lahng had brought a bag of flower petals to dump  off the side of the boat. It was a really special moment until someone let the bag blow into the water, too. Then it just looked like trash floating in the MeKong.

After the boat ride, we all went to eat lunch at a little restaurant on the MeKong River, overlooking Laos.  We always eat family-style, so I usually just eat what is put in front of me, and I will pretty much try anything once. I started with some "fish soup." Mid eating, I noticed that there was a rather large dead ant floating in it. I scooped it up with my spoon and laughingly showed Nong, the girl sitting next to me, the little (big) treasure I had found. (In Thailand, you really do adjust to finding ants in your dishes sometimes, scooping them out, and carrying on eating). Nong pointed out to me that there were more dead ants in my soup. Sure enough, there were! Then she told me that the name of the soup I was eating literally translates to "Fish-Ant Soup." YUM. After ditching the soup, I went for what I thought was a safe bet: an omelette. Midway through eating the omelette, I started wondering what these little white "beans" were in the omelette. Do you have a guess? Drumroll... Ant eggs! The omelette was called "Ant Egg Omelette." This was just getting hilarious. Thankfully, Mahh Lahng's daughter, P'Lew whisked me away to the kitchen to help learn how to "cook" Thai food (aka take pictures in the kitchen/ entertain the staff). Thai people think it's hilarious that I don't know how to use a knife. Yeah, "I'm sorry I didn't learn how to cut with a machete when I was 6 years old!" After lunch we made a quick stop at Kaeng Sapheu, where we sat and ate a snack. What was the snack you ask? More ant eggs. The best part was that they were literally hatching as they sat in front of us. The queen ant was there too...she looked pissed. Check out the pic below.

We came home, and I picked up my fellow Fulbright friends: Gracie, Jane, and James. It was SO great to see them and to show them my life here. They were my first real visitors, and I've visited them, so it was cool to compare our lives out here in Isan (Northeastern Thailand)! We shared stories, went out for chocolate cake, ate dinner at Ubon's popping night market, and then headed to the famous ex-pat bar, Wrong Way Cafe, to meet up with about 20 Thailand Peace Corps members. It was the best night. I may have possibly met my future husband last Saturday night haha. In the morning, everyone went to the bakery "Peppers," and I had the best, extremely fluffy, blueberry pancakes I have ever had. I am still craving them they were incredible! I saw my friends off, and then got dressed to go to a party with my Thai family (a different sister...Mahh Now). At the party, which was actually a Red Cross event in a small Chinese section of town, one of the guests tried to put spices in the soup once it arrived on our table. Mahh Now and Mahh Mee both literally jumped out of their seats to stop him, because they knew that I can't handle really spicy food. My Thai family is so attentive to me...I am just soaking it up! (And obviously trying to give back in whatever way I can!) I then left the party early because I had a phone interview with a local newspaper reporter back home, and we are 13 hours apart. It was the best, busiest, best weekend ever. 

My friend Mark just visited during the week, and we had an incredible 4 days together exploring Ubon. My adventures with Mark will be my next post. Time is flying...


P'Lew holding her daughter, Nomurri (right) and Mahh Bin's daughter, 
HongYok (left) outside of my apartment building.
Too adorable.

Mahh Lahng and I, at the Buddha caves near 
Wat Tham Khu Ha Sawan.

Nomurri and I getting ready to make merit.

A gilt leaf monk statue? A little creepy to me, but Mahh Lahng
wanted me to take a picture with him.

Almost like a castle...

Wat Tham Khu Ha Sawan

Nomurri, Hong Yok and Mahh Bin!

On our way down to the MeKong River

On the other side of the MeKong: Laos
Fun Fact: Even though the "2 Color River" is supposed to be blue meets brown water,
I only saw brown water.

Boating fun. No one knew how to swim. 
Fearless?

This was one long long-tailed boat!

Hong Yok

Paw Owt preparing some flower petals to dump in the river

Dumping flower petals/ making merit

I was just minding my own business when I found an extremely large ant in my soup.
 Then I realized I was eating "Fish-Ant Soup."

When you find out you're eating "Ant Fish Soup", you go for the omelette.
Only to find out you're eating an "Ant-Egg Omelette."
Bottom left: white ant eggs

Learning how to cut with a machete made me feel better.

"Helping" in the kitchen of the restaurant

The girl behind me is laughing, but I'm the one holding the machete.

Holding a big ladle was cool too.

Ginger anyone? 
Big pot of Tom Yum!

Now this is a job I can do

Those are some pretty dishes, if you ask me

Lobsters in a net in the MeKong:
Soon to be eaten

Chilis drying in the sun

Cool motorbike (that I don't know how to ride)

Honk Yok and Nomurri wearing some new shades

Strangers doing cucumber/ lime races.
I want in.

Kaeng Sapheu

As if ant soup and an ant omelette weren't enough, ant eggs for a snack. 
On the right: One pissed Queen Ant

Eels

Bin of baby turtles

Pigeons- used for making merit. They have really pretty black and white 
polka dotted feathers. I'm pretty sure I have a pair of earrings with them at home.

Fellow Fulbrights James and Jane came to visit!
My bed.

Jane, me, and Gracie (another Fulbright!) in front of my apartment :)

U-Cafe, Ubon Ratchathani. I didn't know places this trendy existed in Ubon!
However, that pond thing looks like a liability if you ask me. Sometimes I like to point
 out everything that would be a liability in the states, but isn't here 
(because there's no such thing as a liability here)

Andrea (Fulbright who lives in Warin) and Jane.
We call Andrea "Janice" sometimes.

Gracie: cheesecake. Me: Chocolate cake. James: Black forrest chocolate cake.
It'd been a while.

Peace Corps/ Fulbright reunion on Saturday night!
One of the best nights of my life. So many stories were shared.

How cute are they sleeping on my floor/ sharing a pillow?!

Fulbrights living in the "Isan" region of Thailand:
From left: James, Andrea, Me, Gracie, Jane

In the evening, Kate (next to me...her Mom is Mahh Now) invited 
me to a family party with the whole gang :)

Kate! 

The street is decorated for the Chinese New Year


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