Emmy in the Rice Paddy: Ubon Ratchathani: In the Rice Paddy at Last!

Ubon Ratchathani is one of the most magical places in the world. I arrived in Ubon, my permanent location for the next year, early last week, and it was quite a culture shock from chaotic, dirty Bangkok. As soon as my host teacher, P’Nuan, picked me up from the one room airport with my one suitcase, we drove to my new apartment. On the short drive, all along the streets were men on bicycles wearing straw hats and selling bananas. A Backstreet Boys mix CD circa 2000 was playing in the car. The air was uncomfortably clean. I was completely shocked and overwhelmed by the drastic transition.

After dropping my stuff off at my new home for the next year—which feels a lot like a hotel room (and I have my own balcony overlooking a coconut palm tree!), we headed straight to my new school. The drive to the school is absolutely beautiful: endless green rice paddies in every direction and huge water buffalo tied up with rope grazing on the skinny strips of land between the highway. Occasionally I will spot a monk riding his motorcycle.

Driving up to Baan Ku Muang School, willow-like vines mystically hang over the dirt pathway, and children in school uniforms straight out of the 1950s stop what they are doing to “wai” you (place their hands together at their chests as if praying while gently bowing their heads). There is really nothing like being wai-ed a hundred times by smiling faces; it is so respectful, magical really. The wai is comparable to a handshake, but there is something that seems more respectful about it. A younger person always wais an older person first, and the older person then wais the younger person back to sort of “return” the wai. Hilarious: All of my fellow Thai teachers have "English names" that they chose themselves that they like to be called, as well as their real Thai names. However, Thais are very family oriented, so when addressing a fellow older teacher, you must either call them "Maah" (Mom) or "Paw" (Dad) before their name.

Before class, from around 8-8:45am, all students (1^st to 9^th grade) do mandatory group meditation, yoga, and brain gym (physical exercises to awaken your brain such as patting your head with one hand while circularly rubbing your stomach with the other hand). Then the students gather into small groups for about fifteen minutes to work on crafts to sell in order to raise money for the school. In their spare time, students sweep the school grounds, trim the shrubbery, and help out around the school. In America this might be considered child labor. However, I see how students caring for their school every morning fosters a healthy respect for their school, as well as discipline and routine. For my first week of classes, I had students make name cards and write down their favorite food, which allowed me to gauge their English writing ability. I also spent my first classes introducing myself and showing students photos from my life at home- including snow (they gasped), beautiful autumn leaves at Cornell (they also gasped), and photos of family, friends, and Chicago. At the end of my first day, my very kind school director asked me how my students were. I told him that they were wonderful except for a few boys who sat in the back and talked during class. He told me that it is okay to hit students if they disobey me. He was serious.

My birthday happened to be one of my first days teaching, and I was extremely touched by the absolutely beautiful, creative handwritten cards that I received throughout the day from so many students. I feel extremely welcomed, looked after, and appreciated at Baan Ku Muang School, and there is no place I would rather be right now than Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand.

Thai students must take their shoes off before entering any classroom.

Students work on crafts in the morning to help raise extra money for the school.

One of my first lessons: "American Super-Market." I brought from home about 12 different Jewel and Dominicks grocery store ads and played a game where students had to find the food that I called out, and whoever found it first got 2 points and everyone else got 1 point. Significantly, I taught them what peanut butter is and brought in a jar for them to smell. They hated it! Also, do you like the decorations I put above the board? They are mixed calendar photos from American National Parks and Thai Beaches :)

A few of my first graders. They do not speak any English, which is challenging. It is

also challenging to teach them because they are distractingly adorable.

Bunny shoes. I am that teacher.

A few of my birthday cards. I can't get over how thoughtful and creative so many of my

students are. I will cherish these forever!

A few of my students and their birthday cards

This card, with a drawing of Justin Bieber to the left, is from one of my favorite students. I am pretty sure that she is the one who spread the word that is was going to be my birthday over the weekend, and I'm also pretty certain that other students used her card as a template. Now I have 80 birthday cards that say, "Request have strong health, there is the progress in the work and have one's hope fulfilled for what, wish every the points!" It's the thought that counts :)

Forgot the "H"...who did?

"Hope your birthday is filled with your favorite things. And that I'm one of them."

One of my sweetest students writing "Happy Birthday" on the board

Bow. She has never left Ubon, and she is an incredible English speaker.

I admire her so much.

Everyday all of the teachers eat a potluck, family style lunch together.

I am holding a frog from a nearby pond that has been deep fried.

Mr. Ken, the wonderful school director, showing me that he can eat frog

During school lunch, students can sing karaoke. Younger students watch older students take the stage!

These 3 girls visit me every day in my classroom. They are so beautiful! Notice the "Welcome Emily" decorations on the back wall that last year's Fulbright left for me when I arrived :)

This map was on my wall in college for all 4 years. I can't think of a better home for it.

The 30 minute drive to and from school everyday: Rice paddies.

Dragon fruit snack...delicious!

P'Nuan cooks me an amazing "Sukhi"dinner! Mmm...

Paw Arnold, one of the teachers, and his puppies. I accidentally called Paw Arnold "Paw Anun" for the first week at school because that's how the other Thai teachers pronounced his name. Only later when I saw his name written down did I realize that "Anun" was really "Arnold."

For my birthday, Paw Arnold named this puppy after me.

Meet puppy "Emily" (!!!)

Going for the Stuart Weitzman. The dog's got taste.

Maah Sarah, Paw Arnold's wife and a fellow teacher, cooking me a delicious birthday dinner!

Paw Arnold, Maah Sarah, and P'Nuan. My new family.

They ordered me a cake and sung me "Happy Birthday."

Notice Paw Arnold (Paw Anun) is holding a microphone...

Karaoke time!!!

On Sunday P'Nuan took me to a wedding in Si Sa Ket province- her home village! Village weddings usually take place in the mornings, while city weddings are evening affairs.